Aug. 9, 1990 --Thursday
| On Roan Mountain |
| Copyright 2008 by Lewis Harris. All rights reserved. |
Man alive! I've been workin' today! It's 9:28 p.m. and I'm at my
usual candle. Cold wet day today. It thunderstormed the entire
night and was still raining when I awoke this morning...It finally
stopped, but I started hiking late --around 10:30 a.m.. My clothes
from yesterday were still soaked, but I'm used to wet clothes now.
There wasn't any sense in putting on dry ones with the forest
dripping water all around and over me.
Within the first ninety minutes, I passed two fairly large groups of
backpackers --all heading south. I didn't speak with either bunch
for very long, but it was good to see other hikers for a change.
After those groups, I saw no one else on the trail.
I had oatmeal and hot chocolate for breakfast and planned on
having dinner nine miles into my day at the next shelter. My
guidebook said the next shelter sign could be missing. I kept on
the lookout for side trails where I expected the shelter to be.
I ventured down one trail and discovered an abandoned one-room
shack. Nothing there of interest, but in a tree above the structure
was an enormous owl. He eyed me with suspicion and flew from
tree to tree. He was a large and powerful looking bird. I've heard
owls "whoooing" many times as I lay in my tent. I've imagined the
sound to be wolves. I remember being tented in Beech Gap and
hearing what seemed to be dozens of owls, calling all night long. A
very eerie sound.
Finally found Clyde Smith Shelter --well marked. It wasn't much,
but it did provide a roof against the rain that started up soon after I
arrived. I had noodles and then cleaned up the place a bit and
rested, waiting for the rain to stop. It didn't, and I finally left anyway.
Alan "The Ridgerunner" told me the secret to walking in the rain.
He said: "Just accept the fact that you're going to get your clothes
soaked and that you'll change into dry ones when you can." Some
secret! Not much of a plan, but you can't beat mother nature.
I ended up leaving that shelter around 5:45, figuring to make it to
Roan High Knob Shelter 5.5 miles away. In the registers, people
have referred to Roan Mnt. as "Groan Mnt." It sure was a bear to
climb --3 miles uphill --a lot of it steep and rocky and overgrown. I
had to work like a madman to get up here! Some sections were so
overgrown, the grasses and weeds and thickets towered over my
head, strangling me. I was soaking wet after all that foliage, and
my boots were squishy and filled with water.
It was a beautiful climb, though. High and rugged and wild. When
the climb flattened out, I found myself on a grassy bald that was
wide and open. There were many fire rings and campsites left
from previous hikers. The bald extends for miles. There are
supposed to be quite a few wild horses living up here. I hope to
see one tomorrow as I hike over the rest of the balds.
It was after 8 o'clock when I reached the top and I didn't make it to
the shelter until after 8:30. A fog rolled in and I could barely make
out the blazes on the trees. If it weren't for my candles, I'd have
had a heck of a time when I made it here. The shelter is actually a
two-story log cabin, and very dark inside. It has two rooms, one
down and one above that you reach by ladder.
I've propped the door shut with my staff. There are two windows
with the wooden shutters tied down. When I arrived, the place was
pitch black inside. I had to dig my candles out of my pack before I
could even enter. There are two worn mattresses on the floor. I've
rolled out my sleeping bag onto one. My clothes are drenched and
I have them hanging from a line. They'll still be wet in the morning,
but I'm sure I'll be wearing them again. It has begun raining outside
once more. It's chilly and I can see my breath. I don't know what
the elevation is here, but it's as high as I've been in a while.
I did 14.1 miles today, although it feels like more. I treated myself
to pop-tarts before bed. I'm snug and dry and alone in a log cabin
on a wet and foggy night at the top of Roan Mountain.
I fell once today and slid down an incline. I got my elbows and the
bottom of my pack pretty muddy. I'm filthy right now, but I didn't
arrive in time to scope out the water source and wash off.
Considering the rain and all, I've had a pretty good day and seen
some beautiful country.
usual candle. Cold wet day today. It thunderstormed the entire
night and was still raining when I awoke this morning...It finally
stopped, but I started hiking late --around 10:30 a.m.. My clothes
from yesterday were still soaked, but I'm used to wet clothes now.
There wasn't any sense in putting on dry ones with the forest
dripping water all around and over me.
Within the first ninety minutes, I passed two fairly large groups of
backpackers --all heading south. I didn't speak with either bunch
for very long, but it was good to see other hikers for a change.
After those groups, I saw no one else on the trail.
I had oatmeal and hot chocolate for breakfast and planned on
having dinner nine miles into my day at the next shelter. My
guidebook said the next shelter sign could be missing. I kept on
the lookout for side trails where I expected the shelter to be.
I ventured down one trail and discovered an abandoned one-room
shack. Nothing there of interest, but in a tree above the structure
was an enormous owl. He eyed me with suspicion and flew from
tree to tree. He was a large and powerful looking bird. I've heard
owls "whoooing" many times as I lay in my tent. I've imagined the
sound to be wolves. I remember being tented in Beech Gap and
hearing what seemed to be dozens of owls, calling all night long. A
very eerie sound.
Finally found Clyde Smith Shelter --well marked. It wasn't much,
but it did provide a roof against the rain that started up soon after I
arrived. I had noodles and then cleaned up the place a bit and
rested, waiting for the rain to stop. It didn't, and I finally left anyway.
Alan "The Ridgerunner" told me the secret to walking in the rain.
He said: "Just accept the fact that you're going to get your clothes
soaked and that you'll change into dry ones when you can." Some
secret! Not much of a plan, but you can't beat mother nature.
I ended up leaving that shelter around 5:45, figuring to make it to
Roan High Knob Shelter 5.5 miles away. In the registers, people
have referred to Roan Mnt. as "Groan Mnt." It sure was a bear to
climb --3 miles uphill --a lot of it steep and rocky and overgrown. I
had to work like a madman to get up here! Some sections were so
overgrown, the grasses and weeds and thickets towered over my
head, strangling me. I was soaking wet after all that foliage, and
my boots were squishy and filled with water.
It was a beautiful climb, though. High and rugged and wild. When
the climb flattened out, I found myself on a grassy bald that was
wide and open. There were many fire rings and campsites left
from previous hikers. The bald extends for miles. There are
supposed to be quite a few wild horses living up here. I hope to
see one tomorrow as I hike over the rest of the balds.
It was after 8 o'clock when I reached the top and I didn't make it to
the shelter until after 8:30. A fog rolled in and I could barely make
out the blazes on the trees. If it weren't for my candles, I'd have
had a heck of a time when I made it here. The shelter is actually a
two-story log cabin, and very dark inside. It has two rooms, one
down and one above that you reach by ladder.
I've propped the door shut with my staff. There are two windows
with the wooden shutters tied down. When I arrived, the place was
pitch black inside. I had to dig my candles out of my pack before I
could even enter. There are two worn mattresses on the floor. I've
rolled out my sleeping bag onto one. My clothes are drenched and
I have them hanging from a line. They'll still be wet in the morning,
but I'm sure I'll be wearing them again. It has begun raining outside
once more. It's chilly and I can see my breath. I don't know what
the elevation is here, but it's as high as I've been in a while.
I did 14.1 miles today, although it feels like more. I treated myself
to pop-tarts before bed. I'm snug and dry and alone in a log cabin
on a wet and foggy night at the top of Roan Mountain.
I fell once today and slid down an incline. I got my elbows and the
bottom of my pack pretty muddy. I'm filthy right now, but I didn't
arrive in time to scope out the water source and wash off.
Considering the rain and all, I've had a pretty good day and seen
some beautiful country.
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